t do I do?

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A. A cat should never get stitches on a wound unless it is terribly disfiguring. Wounds from bites and scratches harbor lots of bacteria, and so on closing it with sutures you simply close the bacteria inside. I suspect he is chewing at it because it is uncomfortable. The wound should be cleaned and then an antibiotic should be given – injectable or oral. The only way to prevent this is to keep your cat indoors. Cats outside will inevitably interact with other cats, and most wounds (in my experience) get infected and become abscesses without the help of an antibiotic.

How to Identify Common Pet Problems ?

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The best way to prevent your cat from getting a bite-wound abscess is to neuter him to reduce his desire to fight over females. And, again, it would be even better to keep him indoors.
If the abscess has already burst, then clipping the hair away from the wound and flushing it with salt water (1 teaspoon per pint of warm water) will help to remove the pus and allow it to heal. Your cat may require a collar to prevent them from licking the wound while it heals as this can do more harm than good.
Apply a clean cloth soaked in warm water or a warm compress to the site. Try to keep it on the wound for a minute or two at a time. Applying hydrogen peroxide directly to open wounds is not recommended and it may cause further tissue damage. Never use alcohol on an abscess.
Cats will commonly lick at their wound. This may cause the hair around the abscess to part and make the abscess more visible to you. The abscess after some time will look raw and will at some point stop draining pus. Overlaying skin can become especially fragile and be easily torn away, creating a large raw spot.
Abscesses usually appear two to seven days after your cat has been bitten. Your cat may begin to look and act unwell, and may run a fever or feel warm to the touch, have no appetite or appear listless – or some cats may become quite cranky and unhappy.
Abscesses may form when a causative organism is inoculated into the skin and subcutis. This occurs from bite wounds, trauma, or hematogenous spread of a systemic infection to the subcutis. Bite wounds from cat to cat fights are most common, and oral flora is the source of bacteria recovered from fight wound abscesses.
Can an abscess kill a cat? It`s very uncommon for an abscess to be fatal. However, a cat`s prognosis depends on the location of the abscess, the extent of infection, and type of bacteria involved.
Your veterinarian may prescribe an antibiotic for your cat to treat the bacterial infection. Common antibiotics include ampicillin, cefazolin, or amoxicillin-clavulanate. Your vet may also prescribe medication to manage your cat`s pain.
A very small abscess or one close to the surface of your skin may resolve by itself. You may be able to get rid of an abscess by applying a warm compress to the area. It may drain naturally, but you shouldn`t attempt to drain or burst an abscess at home.
Small abrasions and lacerations often only need thorough cleaning and can be left open to heal on their own, or they may need a small amount of skin glue. Larger lacerations (long and/or deep) will require careful exploration to assess the underlying tissues under anesthesia/sedation.
There are four phases of wound healing: Inflammation, debridement, repair, and maturation. This is the first phase of healing and is all about controlling bleeding and activating the immune system. Without going into too much molecular detail, blood clots are formed and blood vessels constrict to reduce blood loss.
If left untreated, abscesses can lead to the development of serious and potentially fatal conditions like immunodeficiency virus and feline leukemia virus. Symptoms include: Signs of pain, such as limping or pawing at the affected area. Fever, especially if it is located inside the body.
Triple Antibiotic Ointment is a combination of three antibiotics for cats and dogs: Bacitracin, neomycin, and polymyxin B. It is used as a first aid for wounds in cats and dogs. A popular dog and cat medication, it is used to treat bacterial infections of minor cuts, burns or scrapes on the skin of the animal.
How should I care for my cat`s open wound at home? Your veterinarian will provide you with specific instructions. Typically, you will need to clean the wound two or three times daily with a mild antiseptic solution or warm water to remove any crusted discharge and to keep the wound edges clean.
If the abscess has ruptured, thorough cleaning is recommended. Often the wound is left open to drain during the healing process. During healing, it is imperative that your cat does not lick or chew at the abscess. Saliva is contaminated with bacteria and will only prolong and prevent healing.
Here is how you can differentiate between a cyst and an abscess: A cyst is a sac-like pocket enclosed with abnormal cells, while an abscess is a pus-filled infection. The growth of a cyst is usually very slow and without pain unless it is enlarged.
Treatments for skin abscesses

This usually involves a small operation to make a cut in the skin which will allow the pus to drain. You may be given a local anaesthetic so you do not feel anything when the abscess is drained. You may also be given antibiotics if the abscess is infected.

As the wound fills up with the granulation tissue it will also begin to shrink or contract . The appearance of wet pink granulation tissue means the wound is healing appropriately.
But abscess-producing infections in cats usually result from bites from other cats, since the bacteria that cause infection are normal inhabitants of the feline mouth and are easily passed along when one cats sharp teeth puncture another cats tender flesh.
Aloe Vera gel is often used to treat burns and cuts or skin irritations because it has natural antibacterial properties but it is also an effective way to stop the pain of an infected tooth. It can also help heal abscesses in the gums.
Keeping the wound clean is one of the most important parts of healing the wound. 2. Gently bath and clean the wound with warm salty water (1 teaspoon of salt in a litre of warm water) or as otherwise directed. The wound should be bathed with this solution 3-4 times daily.
Causes of recurrent or nonhealing abscesses in cats include retroviral infections, as previously discussed, underlying osteomyelitis, neoplasia or foreign body, or infection with organisms such as Nocardia, Mycobacterium, fungi, or parasites such as Cuterebra.
It may be necessary to sedate or anesthetize your cat for this. If cellulitis is present, drainage is not possible. Antibiotics, such as ampicillin (Ampi-Tab®), amoxicillin-clavulanate (Clavamox®), cefazolin (Ancef®, Kefzol®), or cefovecin (Convenia®), will be given to treat the bacterial infection.
Unlike other infections, antibiotics alone will not usually cure an abscess. In general an abscess must open and drain in order for it to improve. Sometimes draining occurs on its own, but generally it must be opened with the help of a warm compress or by a doctor in a procedure called incision and drainage (I&D).

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Q. How do you prevent a cat from getting an abscess?My cat has one and had to get stitches and he chewed through a couple, has a open wound what do I do?
ANSWER : A. A cat should never get stitches on a wound unless it is terribly disfiguring. Wounds from bites and scratches harbor lots of bacteria, and so on closing it with sutures you simply close the bacteria inside. I suspect he is chewing at it because it is uncomfortable. The wound should be cleaned and then an antibiotic should be given – injectable or oral. The only way to prevent this is to keep your cat indoors. Cats outside will inevitably interact with other cats, and most wounds (in my experience) get infected and become abscesses without the help of an antibiotic.

Q. Why do cats meow?
ANSWER : A. Cat parents often wish they could better understand what their favorite feline friends want or desire. A cat’s meow can be interpreted in many different ways and can indicate an array of feelings and needs. Here are some of the most common reasons for your cat’s vocalizations:

1. Greeting- Many cats will meow as a greeting when you enter your home or walk into a room. Cats will also meow at another cat or animal in the household to extend a hello and acknowledge the other animal’s presence.

2. Attention – An exuberant meow followed by leg rubbing or another attention seeking behavior may indicate your cat is looking for some quality time spent together. Some petting or rubbing behind the ears may be in order.

3. Hunger – A meowing cat is often a hungry cat. This is one of the most common reasons for a cat to vocalize to their owners. A cat will meow to get your attention at feeding times or even when they want extra food.

4. Sickness – A sick or hurt cat may begin to meow excessively, warranting a visit to the veterinarian. There are numerous reasons for a cat in distress to meow—whether it is related to an upset stomach, an injured leg or a urinary blockage. These meows should be carefully investigated.

5. Entering or leaving – Most cats will vocalize when they want to be let in or out of a room. You may notice when you are in the bathroom or behind the closed door of a room that your cat begins to meow, scratches at the door, and often reaches its paw under the door. This is a clear indication that the cat wants to be where you are.

6. Angry – An agitated cat may meow to warn their owner or another household pet that they are upset and would like to be left alone. This angry meow may increase in sound volume as the cat becomes more stressed or agitated. Often a cat will exhibit this type of meow at the veterinary office when they are unhappy with their examination or restraint.

Each feline is different and so are their vocalizations. Learn to understand the variety of meows your cat uses on a daily basis. This will help you develop a better relationship with your cat and help them live a more trusting and happier life.

Q. My cat will not stop going to the toilet on my carpet, bed, washing pile etc.. Also uses its litter box occasionally? I don’t understand why this is?
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his eliminating outside the box.
If medical issues are ruled out, take a look at other reasons. Has there been a lot of unusual activity? Has you cat been left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Is it big enough? Have you changed the type or brand of litter? Is there something attractive about the spot he uses? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out to express their dissatisfaction.
The general rule is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped daily, if not more often and changed completely weekly, washed with soap and water only. You can offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystals, it makes a hissing sound when wet that startles some cats and make them reluctant to use it again. The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure any other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litter box. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation. And, when cleaning up pet accidents, don’t use any cleaner containing ammonia. This leaves behind a scent similar to urine.

Q. My cat started to pee outside the litter box. What should I do?
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate bathroom use in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his defecating outside the box.

Once medical issues are ruled out, it’s time to take a look at other explanations. Has there been a lot of activity that wasn’t normal? Were you away and your cat was left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox located in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet, or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Have you changed the brand of litter or kind? Or is there something about the spot he has chosen to use that is attracting him in some way? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out as a way of expressing their dissatisfaction.

The general rule of thumb is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped at least daily, if not more often and changed completely on a weekly basis, and washed with soap and water.

You can also offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystal kind, since it makes a hissing sound when wet that can startle some cats and make them reluctant to use it again.

The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litterbox. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation.

Q. I have a cat that defecates in the litter box but always urinates outside the box. It is very annoying.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his eliminating outside the box.

If medical issues are ruled out, take a look at other reasons. Has there been a lot of unusual activity? Has you cat been left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Is it big enough? Have you changed the type or brand of litter? Is there something attractive about the spot he uses? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out to express their dissatisfaction.

The general rule is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped daily, if not more often and changed completely weekly, washed with soap and water only. You can offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystals, it makes a hissing sound when wet that startles some cats and make them reluctant to use it again. The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure any other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litter box. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation. And, when cleaning up pet accidents, don’t use any cleaner containing ammonia. This leaves behind a scent similar to urine.

Q. My cat is pooping outside of the litter bix. He is 2 1/2. He did this as a kitten. It stopped then started about 3 months ago. Litterbox is clean.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination or house soiling can be a frustrating problem but with a bit of detective work on your part, there is hope. First, before deciding that this is a behavioral issue, any medical problems (diarrhea, constipation, fecal incontinence, pain on defecation, etc.) need to be ruled out and/or treated. If your cat receives a clean bill of health from your vet but is still eliminating outside the litterbox, then we need to consider that something about the box itself might be aversive to your cat. Cats can be quite finicky about their litterbox and toileting habits. Below I have listed common recommendations and cat preferences for litterbox use. Review the list and make any changes that could account for your cat’s aversion to defecating in the litterbox:
* Soft, fine-grained clumping litter (vs, coarse-grained, non-clumping litter)
* Unscented
* 1 – 1 1/2 inch depth (especially older cats or cats with hip problems)
* Larger pans (especially for large cats) – want to get whole body inside – poop just outside the box might mean the box is too small
* Open, non-hooded
* At least one shallow side to get in and out easily
* Easy to get to – not hidden away, preferably in areas they spend time in or near – and not near appliances that make scary, unpredictable noises (washers, dryers, refrigerators)
* Scoop minimum 1X/day – preferably 2
* Clean the litterbox with soap and water and put in fresh scoopable litter at least once/month (instead of just continuously adding)
* Some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in a separate box, so you may need 2 boxes even if you just have 1 cat. Multi-cat households should have 1 box/cat plus 1 extra.

Q. Our cat of six years has on two separate occasions has defecated on the living room rug and recently pee’d on the skirt of the Christmas tree.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his eliminating outside the box.

If medical issues are ruled out, take a look at other reasons. Has there been a lot of unusual activity? Has you cat been left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Is it big enough? Have you changed the type or brand of litter? Is there something attractive about the spot he uses? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out to express their dissatisfaction.

The general rule is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped daily, if not more often and changed completely weekly, washed with soap and water only. You can offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystals, it makes a hissing sound when wet that startles some cats and make them reluctant to use it again. The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure any other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litter box. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation. And, when cleaning up pet accidents, don’t use any cleaner containing ammonia. This leaves behind a scent similar to urine.

Q. My cat continues to scratch on furniture and carpets. He has plenty of scratching posts around the house. Please help!
ANSWER : A. Scratching is a natural behavior in cats that can be frequently frustrating for pet owners who want to keep their furniture from being shredded on a constant basis. The texture of furniture and carpet is very appealing to cats and this why they frequently choose to spend their time on this activity as opposed to playing with their own cat toys. Here are some suggestions to help curb this unwanted behavior:

1. Purchase a cat scratching post or cat tree that is covered in carpeted or textured material. Place it in an appealing spot that your cat would be inclined to spend time (eg. in the sun). You can also place catnip on the scratching post or cat tree to make your cat even more interested in the new object.

2. You can utilize double sided tape on the ends of the furniture because you cat will not like the sticky feeling and will learn to not scratch in that region. Use the tape that has a lighter adhesive in order to prevent any permanent damage. Other materials, such as aluminum foil or bubble wrap can also be placed on the furniture to discourage the scratching.

3. Keep nails trimmed short by either learning to do this on your own at home or using a veterinary technician, or groomer. Nails can usually be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.

4. Redirect the unwanted behavior. If your cat begins scratching, use a favorite or new toy to distract the cat from the scratching. Give your cat positive praise for not scratching.

5. As a last resort you can use a spray bottle full of water to spritz your cat when he or she is scratching inappropriately at your furniture. Generally, cats do not like water and this will discourage them from continuing the behavior.

Have patience with your cat because it can takes time to understand this is an unwanted behavior and that furniture is not another toy for them to use. You can always consult your veterinary or veterinary behaviorist to help with ideas or further solutions to this problem.

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