Experienced and professional animal trainer provide their insights in answering this question :
A. Your cat could just be exceptionally shy around people she doesn’t know well. I’ve done pet sitting at client’s homes where I only catch a glimpse on one of their cats while I am there. Make sure the cat has plenty of places to hide and get up away from anything that may frighten her. If this is a problem because the pet sitter has to medicate her, when you leave you may have to close doors leading to bedrooms and other places where she can hide so that the pet sitter doesn’t have to search every corner of every room to find her. I know, because I’ve had to do that myself. Just optimize the environment for your cat all the time, so that she feels as secure as possible. If your pet sitter can come by and be present while you’re home so that the cat sees her as acceptable and has a chance to get used to her, that can go a long way toward making her feel more at ease.

How to Identify Common Pet Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced pet care professionals :

Cats hiss at people because they feel intimidated or don`t recognize the person`s smells. They might even pick up the smell of another animal on your friend! If this happens, tell your friend not to approach your cat or try to pet her. The best action is to ignore your cat.
Hissing is simply an emotional expression of discomfort, fear, or stress. A hissing kitty feels threatened, insecure, and uncomfortable. The common misconception is that the cat that hisses is “teasing” or “taunting” the other cat, dog, or person.
Hissing is almost always a sign that a cat that feels mistreated, provoked, insecure, uncomfortable, threatened, or pressured in some way. The common misconception is that the cat that hisses is teasing or taunting the other cat, dog, or person.
The two big reasons for cats to be hostile toward visitors: fear and territorial aggression. Frightened cats may have had a negative experience that was associated with strangers. They`ll do whatever they can to avoid confrontation. If hissing, growling, and retreating fail, they lash out.
Allow your cat to acclimate to visitors slowly. Allow them to choose to come out of their room and greet your visitors at their own pace. Whether it is at the top of a cat tree, over a baby gate, or in a quiet room, all cats need to be able to get away when they want to. Teach your guests to respect these hideouts.
Some hissing is normal during this stage. Don`t punish the cats for hissing or growling as that can form a negative association about the other cat, as well as you. Allow the cats to see each other once there has been no hissing for a couple of days.
First and foremost, cat hissing is usually a warning to another person or animal. It`s their way of telling them to back off or they`ll be forced to attack – cats characteristically want to avoid confrontation at all costs, so think of this as a warning shot.
Cats can be shy around strangers for several reasons. A common reason is lack of experience with visitors when they were kittens. If cats were not introduced to different people during their socialization period (2 to 7 weeks old), they might be more apprehensive around strangers as adults.
Stranger-directed aggression is typically fear-driven, territorial, petting-induced and/or play-related. If the cat is really fearful, aggression may be redirected to either the owner or other pets in the home. But, improvement is very likely, even with minimal work, Christensen says.
New people or pets in the household can make cats feel jealous in two ways: stress about having fewer resources because the newcomer will take them away, and insecurity about their place in the household and the amount of attention they will get versus the newcomer.
Cats Often Growl Out of Fear

If there is a new stimulus in the house – such as a visitor or a new animal, or even a change of routine or environment – your cat may be growling because they feel afraid.

When petting your cat, make sure not to overdo it. That full-body stroke that most dogs love can overstimulate a cat. Instead, try holding your finger out for the cat to rub against you. Letting a cat come to you is the surest, safest way to gain a cat`s affection and help a skittish cat feel more comfortable.
The best pet sitters are the ones who put your heart at ease by communicating with you frequently when they are watching your pet. They might text photos of your pet to you during the day to let you know that they just finished a walk with your pet or even call you, so your pet can hear your voice on the phone.
A young and playful cat may require at least two visits during the day during which the cat sitter will engage them in enriching playtime. An older cat may be happy to get a shorter play session, and spend more time cuddling, and for them one visit may be enough, as long as it`s long enough for a good cuddle.
1 Cats may act out with aggression or be fearful toward pet sitters they do not know or in new environments such as boarding facilities. These emotions may cause them to urinate outside their litter box as they try to tell us they are scared or stressed.
First comes the hiss, then the growl. “Both are warnings, and both can precede an attack,” Quandt shares. “But a growl is more serious.” Unlike a snarling hiss, cats growl with their mouth closed or slightly ajar. It`s low-pitched, rumbling, and used to signal danger or scare the aggressor.
When you arrive home, go straight to a small room where your cat can stay for a few days. There should be no places to hide in this room except for a crate or their carrier box. The room should have a litter box, food and water bowls.
Cats possess excellent long-term memories. They can recall their animal companions and the people who feed them as well as those who irritate them.
Cats tend to hiss and growl to show you that they are unhappy, worried, angry, or feel threatened. Sometimes hissing or growing is a reaction to pain. Hissing can vary in severity from a silent facial expression to an angry “spit.” Your veterinarian will need to give your cat a thorough check to rule out a pain cause.
Most of the time hissing is a sign that a cat is feeling anxious, frightened, or agitated. However, there are some other reasons why a cat will hiss as well. For example, a mother cat may hiss if she feels that her kittens are threatened. Similarly, cats will also hiss if they are in pain.
When you start, always move your hand slowly towards the cat and let the cat smell your hand before you touch him/her. If the cat seems calm enough you can try to pet the cat gently. Again, don`t push things. Start slow, pet the cat for a minute or two the first day, and work your way up to more time.
Most literature on feral kitten socialization suggests that kittens older than 8 weeks up to 6-8 months old, or even adult cats, can still be socialized and adopted, but they need more time and experienced attention.
Early intervention is best. Any type of physical punishment can increase a cat`s fear or anxiety and worsen aggression. Medications may help, but only in combination with behavioral and/or environmental modification. Recognizing aggression and startling an aggressive cat without physical contact is usually effective.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Q. Why do cats meow?
ANSWER : A. Cat parents often wish they could better understand what their favorite feline friends want or desire. A cat’s meow can be interpreted in many different ways and can indicate an array of feelings and needs. Here are some of the most common reasons for your cat’s vocalizations:

1. Greeting- Many cats will meow as a greeting when you enter your home or walk into a room. Cats will also meow at another cat or animal in the household to extend a hello and acknowledge the other animal’s presence.

2. Attention – An exuberant meow followed by leg rubbing or another attention seeking behavior may indicate your cat is looking for some quality time spent together. Some petting or rubbing behind the ears may be in order.

3. Hunger – A meowing cat is often a hungry cat. This is one of the most common reasons for a cat to vocalize to their owners. A cat will meow to get your attention at feeding times or even when they want extra food.

4. Sickness – A sick or hurt cat may begin to meow excessively, warranting a visit to the veterinarian. There are numerous reasons for a cat in distress to meow—whether it is related to an upset stomach, an injured leg or a urinary blockage. These meows should be carefully investigated.

5. Entering or leaving – Most cats will vocalize when they want to be let in or out of a room. You may notice when you are in the bathroom or behind the closed door of a room that your cat begins to meow, scratches at the door, and often reaches its paw under the door. This is a clear indication that the cat wants to be where you are.

6. Angry – An agitated cat may meow to warn their owner or another household pet that they are upset and would like to be left alone. This angry meow may increase in sound volume as the cat becomes more stressed or agitated. Often a cat will exhibit this type of meow at the veterinary office when they are unhappy with their examination or restraint.

Each feline is different and so are their vocalizations. Learn to understand the variety of meows your cat uses on a daily basis. This will help you develop a better relationship with your cat and help them live a more trusting and happier life.

Q. My cat hisses at people coming in the house, especially the cat sitter; what can be done
ANSWER : A. Your cat could just be exceptionally shy around people she doesn’t know well. I’ve done pet sitting at client’s homes where I only catch a glimpse on one of their cats while I am there. Make sure the cat has plenty of places to hide and get up away from anything that may frighten her. If this is a problem because the pet sitter has to medicate her, when you leave you may have to close doors leading to bedrooms and other places where she can hide so that the pet sitter doesn’t have to search every corner of every room to find her. I know, because I’ve had to do that myself. Just optimize the environment for your cat all the time, so that she feels as secure as possible. If your pet sitter can come by and be present while you’re home so that the cat sees her as acceptable and has a chance to get used to her, that can go a long way toward making her feel more at ease.

Q. My cat continues to scratch on furniture and carpets. He has plenty of scratching posts around the house. Please help!
ANSWER : A. Scratching is a natural behavior in cats that can be frequently frustrating for pet owners who want to keep their furniture from being shredded on a constant basis. The texture of furniture and carpet is very appealing to cats and this why they frequently choose to spend their time on this activity as opposed to playing with their own cat toys. Here are some suggestions to help curb this unwanted behavior:

1. Purchase a cat scratching post or cat tree that is covered in carpeted or textured material. Place it in an appealing spot that your cat would be inclined to spend time (eg. in the sun). You can also place catnip on the scratching post or cat tree to make your cat even more interested in the new object.

2. You can utilize double sided tape on the ends of the furniture because you cat will not like the sticky feeling and will learn to not scratch in that region. Use the tape that has a lighter adhesive in order to prevent any permanent damage. Other materials, such as aluminum foil or bubble wrap can also be placed on the furniture to discourage the scratching.

3. Keep nails trimmed short by either learning to do this on your own at home or using a veterinary technician, or groomer. Nails can usually be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.

4. Redirect the unwanted behavior. If your cat begins scratching, use a favorite or new toy to distract the cat from the scratching. Give your cat positive praise for not scratching.

5. As a last resort you can use a spray bottle full of water to spritz your cat when he or she is scratching inappropriately at your furniture. Generally, cats do not like water and this will discourage them from continuing the behavior.

Have patience with your cat because it can takes time to understand this is an unwanted behavior and that furniture is not another toy for them to use. You can always consult your veterinary or veterinary behaviorist to help with ideas or further solutions to this problem.

Read Full Q/A … : I found Pickle on

Q. My cat is pooping outside of the litter bix. He is 2 1/2. He did this as a kitten. It stopped then started about 3 months ago. Litterbox is clean.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination or house soiling can be a frustrating problem but with a bit of detective work on your part, there is hope. First, before deciding that this is a behavioral issue, any medical problems (diarrhea, constipation, fecal incontinence, pain on defecation, etc.) need to be ruled out and/or treated. If your cat receives a clean bill of health from your vet but is still eliminating outside the litterbox, then we need to consider that something about the box itself might be aversive to your cat. Cats can be quite finicky about their litterbox and toileting habits. Below I have listed common recommendations and cat preferences for litterbox use. Review the list and make any changes that could account for your cat’s aversion to defecating in the litterbox:
* Soft, fine-grained clumping litter (vs, coarse-grained, non-clumping litter)
* Unscented
* 1 – 1 1/2 inch depth (especially older cats or cats with hip problems)
* Larger pans (especially for large cats) – want to get whole body inside – poop just outside the box might mean the box is too small
* Open, non-hooded
* At least one shallow side to get in and out easily
* Easy to get to – not hidden away, preferably in areas they spend time in or near – and not near appliances that make scary, unpredictable noises (washers, dryers, refrigerators)
* Scoop minimum 1X/day – preferably 2
* Clean the litterbox with soap and water and put in fresh scoopable litter at least once/month (instead of just continuously adding)
* Some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in a separate box, so you may need 2 boxes even if you just have 1 cat. Multi-cat households should have 1 box/cat plus 1 extra.

Q. I have a cat that defecates in the litter box but always urinates outside the box. It is very annoying.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his eliminating outside the box.

If medical issues are ruled out, take a look at other reasons. Has there been a lot of unusual activity? Has you cat been left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Is it big enough? Have you changed the type or brand of litter? Is there something attractive about the spot he uses? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out to express their dissatisfaction.

The general rule is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped daily, if not more often and changed completely weekly, washed with soap and water only. You can offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystals, it makes a hissing sound when wet that startles some cats and make them reluctant to use it again. The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure any other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litter box. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation. And, when cleaning up pet accidents, don’t use any cleaner containing ammonia. This leaves behind a scent similar to urine.

Q. My cat started to pee outside the litter box. What should I do?
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate bathroom use in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his defecating outside the box.

Once medical issues are ruled out, it’s time to take a look at other explanations. Has there been a lot of activity that wasn’t normal? Were you away and your cat was left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox located in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet, or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Have you changed the brand of litter or kind? Or is there something about the spot he has chosen to use that is attracting him in some way? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out as a way of expressing their dissatisfaction.

The general rule of thumb is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped at least daily, if not more often and changed completely on a weekly basis, and washed with soap and water.

You can also offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystal kind, since it makes a hissing sound when wet that can startle some cats and make them reluctant to use it again.

The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litterbox. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation.

Q. Our cat of six years has on two separate occasions has defecated on the living room rug and recently pee’d on the skirt of the Christmas tree.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his eliminating outside the box.

If medical issues are ruled out, take a look at other reasons. Has there been a lot of unusual activity? Has you cat been left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Is it big enough? Have you changed the type or brand of litter? Is there something attractive about the spot he uses? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out to express their dissatisfaction.

The general rule is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped daily, if not more often and changed completely weekly, washed with soap and water only. You can offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystals, it makes a hissing sound when wet that startles some cats and make them reluctant to use it again. The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure any other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litter box. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation. And, when cleaning up pet accidents, don’t use any cleaner containing ammonia. This leaves behind a scent similar to urine.

Q. Should cats be declawed, or should they have their claws capped?
ANSWER : A. Declawing is the removal of the claw and last bone of that digit, and I would definitely advise against it. Many people assume that declawing is more or less like trimming your nails or getting a manicure, but the truth is that it is a painful and permanently crippling procedure. In fact, some countries have outlawed this procedure.

Not only is it painful, but declawed cats often find it hard to function normally without the last bone and claw. As a result, many cats experience behavioral changes, such as becoming more aggressive.

Besides, if you’re planning to have your cat go outside anytime in its life, I would highly recommend never to declaw your cat, since declawing leaves your cat defenseless, especially while interacting with other animals.

If your cat is clawing up furniture or other objects, I would recommend giving your cat more toys to claw at. In this sense, buying multiple scratching posts would be a very good option.

You might also want to consider discouraging your cat from scratching furniture by using a loud, firm voice whenever the scratching begins.

So, to sum up, having your cat’s nails capped is definitely a better, more humane solution. However, this may not be necessary either if you provide enough toys to claw at, try to correct unwanted scratching behavior, and trim your cat’s claws regularly.