Experienced and professional animal trainer provide their insights in answering this question :
A. Start by putting down runners or rugs on the routes he usually takes. This will help him keep his grip better. Dog boots may help him keep better traction as well. If he is very high energy, lots of exercise and play will help him settle down and not be as active inside. Take him for lots of walks outside, teach him obedience, play fetch with him, anything and everything to get him to wear down that excitable edge that may be contributing to his hurry and slipping on the floors. Obedience training will also teach him to look to you for direction and enable him to listen better when you tell him to slow down. Keeping his nails trimmed short will also let him keep a better grip when walking on the floor.

How to Identify Common Pet Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced pet care professionals :

A dog`s paws are made for gripping natural terrain. Hardwood floors and smooth surfaces such as tile don`t play to your dog`s natural gripping abilities. Your dog`s paws were made for gripping the earth. The nails “dig” into the ground for traction like soccer cleats.
Training With Rewards

Training can also help a dog relax on slippery floors. Avoid forcing a dog into a situation he is afraid of (i.e., don`t drag him onto a slick floor and hold him there). Such actions come with a high risk of making the fear worse and diminish the trust between person and dog.

Take Care of Your Dog`s Feet

Hard nails can`t grip hard flooring and without proper traction your dog can slip. Long nails can make it difficult for your dog to bear their own weight or walk naturally. Keep the nails short and trim them regularly. It`s also important to keep the hair between the toe pads trimmed.

Scooting a bottom across the floor is a common dog behavior often indicative of an anal sac issue. Anal sacs may become clogged or injured for a variety of reasons, which can lead to scooting. Visiting your vet is recommended to ensure scooting isn`t due to a serious issue like allergies or parasites.
Laminate, tile and hardwood floors look great, and they`re easy to keep clean, but your dog`s paws aren`t designed to walk on such smooth hard surfaces. And that can lead to slipping, sliding and falling – and potentially serious injury.
A dog with strong protective instincts may prefer to sleep on a hard surface because it allows him to sense strange footsteps in the home more easily.
For better traction, consider choosing a textured laminate flooring. You can also add rugs and runners to make laminate less slippery. Tile, vinyl, hardwood, and carpet tend to be less of a slip concern and are suitable for most dogs.
Use a non-slip surface to introduce your dog to a slippery tile or wood floor. You can place small mats that will not slip and slide under your dog`s paws on the floor in various places so your dog can use them as stepping stones to walk across the floor.
Essentially, the farther away you get from a natural surface, the more you can expect your doggo to avoid it. Here is a list of the top problem floorings: Polished marble floors. Smooth hardwood floors (there are some hardwoods that are more distressed and easier for your pup to get a grip)
Of course, any hardwood floor is a better surface for pet-friendly homes than carpet. All the allergens such as dust, mold and animal dander that can get buried in a carpet can be easily swept away on a hardwood floor.
While a little scooting might not indicate a problem, scooting that doesn`t resolve on its own, persistent licking, or visible signs of irritation are all cause for a veterinary checkup.
Dogs get tired and need a break, too. Maybe it just needs a moment to relieve itself. A rest is appropriate if you are taking a dog on a longer walk than it is used to.
As we know, dogs also learn to become frightened based on their experience. Dogs that have higher levels of innate fear will be more susceptible to learned fear as well because there are more things that are frightening to them in the first place.
Dogs` paws were meant for soil. They have claws, just like cats and other animals that they use for added traction when walking. Their toes flex and their nails dig in with each step. But with a hard floor, they`re unable to dig in with those toenails and get a grip.
It may be cute to see your dog slipping and sliding on the floor, but it can cause some real issues. He could pull a muscle or tear a ligament, and if he`s an older dog with joint, spinal, hip problems, or arthritis, it could lead to permanent issues that will plague him for the rest of his life.
Fear stages in dogs typically occur at two different times: between 8–11 weeks, and 6–14 months. There`s nothing you can do to prevent these fear periods, but you can give your puppy a helping hand so they come out the other side as a more confident dog.
Often fear comes from a lack of exposure. Dogs are naturally afraid of new things, and dogs that grew up in a deprived environment might be jumpier around “normal” things like traffic cones or men in hats. Even dogs that had a normal upbringing are often afraid of new things that we humans know are harmless.
Though many people think dogs can curl up and sleep most anywhere, your furry friend really shouldn`t be sleeping on the floor. You also probably don`t want him climbing up on your beds or sofas. The truth is, dogs need beds just like we do, and they are beneficial for a variety of reasons.
Dogs don`t need soft beds, but instead need to rest on a firm surface; too-soft pillow beds don`t offer the support needed for comfortable rest and healthy joints, and an older dog who sinks into a plush bed may have trouble getting into and out of it. This doesn`t mean he should sleep on the floor—that`s too firm.
The Not-So-Good:

Bathroom– Water is hardwood flooring`s arch nemesis. In the bathroom, there is almost always water coming from somewhere. Even if it`s just by accident, water can easily get on the bathroom floor. If that floor happens to be hardwood, it can quickly be ruined.

DON`T: Use Vinegar or ammonia. Vinegar and ammonia have a long-standing reputation for being excellent household cleaners. If you have real wood flooring installed anywhere in your home, you will want to avoid using these as they are too abrasive and will tarnish the finish and damage the wood. DON`T: Wear Heels.
Hardwood floors: Vacuuming won`t do much for a per hair problem on hardwood floors, blowing the fur around rather than picking it up. Instead, try an electrostatic or microfiber dry mop, which will trap particles.
Vinyl flooring is a popular flooring option for families with pets. Luxury vinyl tile and vinyl sheet are highly durable, long-lasting, and resistant to moisture, scratches and dents. They are also easy to maintain. Vinyl tile is easy to clean, easy to install and affordable.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Q. Whenever I take my dog on walks he always barks at people and others dogs in my neighborhood. What should I do to resolve the problem
ANSWER : A. The very first thing to do is to make sure your dog is getting sufficient physical and mental exercise every day. A tired dog is a good, happy dog and one who is less likely to bark from boredom or frustration. Depending on his breed, age, and health, your dog may require several long walks as well as a good game of chasing the ball and playing with some interactive toys.

Figure out what he gets out of barking and remove it. Don’t give your dog the opportunity to continue the barking behavior.

Ignore your dog’s barking for as long as it takes him to stop. That means don’t give him attention at all while he’s barking. Your attention only rewards him for being noisy. Don’t talk to, don’t touch, or even look at him. When he finally quiets, even to take a breath, reward him with a treat. To be successful with this method, you must wait as long as it takes for him to stop barking. Yelling at him is the equivalent of barking with him.

Get your dog accustomed to whatever causes him to bark. Start with whatever makes him bark at a distance. It must be far enough away that he doesn’t bark when he sees it. Feed him lots of good treats. Move the stimulus a little closer (perhaps as little as a few inches or a few feet to start) and feed treats. If the stimulus moves out of sight, stop giving your dog treats. You want your dog to learn that the appearance of the stimulus leads to good things.

Teach your dog the ‘quiet’ command. Oddly, the first step is to teach your dog to bark on command. Give your dog the command to “speak,” wait for him to bark two or three times, and then stick a tasty treat in front of his nose. When he stops barking to sniff the treat, praise him and give him the treat. Repeat until he starts barking as soon as you say “speak.” Once your dog can reliably bark on command, teach him the “quiet” command. In a calm environment with no distractions, tell him to “speak.” When he starts barking, say “quiet” and stick a treat in front of his nose. Praise him for being quiet and give him the treat.

As in all training, always end training on a good note, even if it is just for obeying something very simple, like the ‘sit’ command. If you dog regresses in training, go back to the last thing he did successfully and reinforce that before moving on again. Keep sessions short, 15-20 minutes max, and do this several times a day.

Q. How do I determine how much my overweight pet should weigh?
ANSWER : A. There are many tools to determine overweight and obesity levels in pets. A new tool, morphometric measurements and body fat index, are available to accurately determine a pet’s ideal weight; this will allow an accurate determination of the amount of food a pet should receive to achieve weight loss. Feeding the correct amount will lead to greater weight loss success.

There are many weight loss food options to help pets reach their ideal weight. Your veterinarian can help make a ideal weight recommendation. Here are some tips to help your dog lose weight in a healthy and safe way:

1. Diet: Providing a healthy and well balanced diet is essential to your pet’s overall health. Finding the right food for your dog can be a challenging process. For those overweight animals many commercial dog companies offer weight loss diets, but it is important to evaluate food labels for adequate nutritional content.

You want to ensure you are not missing other essential vitamin or mineral content. Volume of food is also important and the amount of food that works for one breed of dog may not be the same for another breed of dog. Portion control as opposed to free-choice feeding can help your dog to drop a few unnecessary pounds.

There are also prescription weight loss foods designed by veterinary nutritionists, such as Hill’s r/d (http://bit.ly/1AoENSd). Some pet owners find that home cooking is the best option for helping to provide a well-balanced and realistic diet plan. There are websites such as balanceit.com that offers recipes to fit your dog’s specific needs. Consulting with your veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist to find the appropriate diet is a great way to help your dog be as healthy as possible.

2. Exercise: Another great tactic for weight loss for your dog is exercise. Whether this is through running, walking or playing with a favorite toy all of these are wonderful types of exercise to help keep your dog at a lean and healthy weight.

For those pet owners with busy schedules utilizing professional dog walking services or playtime through dog daycare services is another option. It has been shown that those pet owners that exercise regularly with their pets generally live a healthier lifestyle.

3. Physical therapy: As animals age pet owners offer encounter their favorite canine having more difficulty walking and have a dwindling desire to play with toys. Physical therapy, specifically hydrotherapy is a wonderful way to help older and arthritic animals gain more mobility and lose weight. Hydrotherapy has been proven to have several therapeutic effects on the body including, muscle strengthening, relief of swelling, decreased joint pain, less stiffness in limbs, improved circulation, weight loss, and increased tissue healing to name a few. For more information on the benefits of hydrotherapy:
http://bit.ly/1w1qqoy

4. Veterinary visit and blood work: Weight gain can also be related to underlying health concerns such as hypothyroidism or other endocrine disorders. Scheduling a veterinary evaluation and routine blood work can be another important component in increasing the longevity of your dog’s life. Conditions such as hypothyroidism that predispose dogs to gain weight can be treated with a daily medication to improve hormonal balance. If feel that your dog is unnecessarily overweight there can be an underlying health condition that needs to be addressed.

5. Healthy treats: Pet owners love the chance to reward their favorite canine companion with treats and most dogs jump at the chance to consume these delicious products. The problem is many treats, which can include commercial dog treats or table scrapes can add many unnecessary calories to your dog’s daily intake. Reading labels and making note of the calories in these treats is an important component of understanding your dog’s overall health. Treats should not exceed more than 10 percent of your pet’s daily calories. There are healthier treats that can be offered to your pet to keep calories lower yet provide a fuller sensation. A pet owner can add steamed or pureed vegetables, such as carrots, green beans or sweet potato to add more fiber and thus a fuller feeling for your dog.

Q. My dog is afraid of hard surface floors. How do I teach him to walk slowly on them so he won’t slip?
ANSWER : A. Start by putting down runners or rugs on the routes he usually takes. This will help him keep his grip better. Dog boots may help him keep better traction as well. If he is very high energy, lots of exercise and play will help him settle down and not be as active inside. Take him for lots of walks outside, teach him obedience, play fetch with him, anything and everything to get him to wear down that excitable edge that may be contributing to his hurry and slipping on the floors. Obedience training will also teach him to look to you for direction and enable him to listen better when you tell him to slow down. Keeping his nails trimmed short will also let him keep a better grip when walking on the floor.

Q. What can I do to stop my dog from barking at people and front doors?
ANSWER : A. Ignore your dog’s barking for as long as it takes him to stop. This means don’t give him any attention at all while he’s barking. Your attention only rewards him for being noisy. Don’t talk to him, don’t touch him, and don’t even look at him. When he finally quiets down, even to take a breath, reward him with a treat. To be successful with this method, you must wait as long as it takes for him to stop barking. If he barks for an hour and you finally get so frustrated that you yell at him to be quiet, the next time he’ll probably bark for an hour and a half. Dogs learns that if they bark long enough you’ll give them attention.

Teach your dog the ‘quiet’ command. It may sound nonsensical, but the first step is to teach your dog to bark on command. Give your dog the command to “speak,” wait for him to bark two or three times, and then stick a tasty treat in front of his nose. When he stops barking to sniff the treat, praise him and give him the treat. Repeat until he starts barking as soon as you say “speak.” Once your dog can reliably bark on command, teach him the “quiet” command. In a calm environment with no distractions, tell him to “speak.” When he starts barking, say “quiet” and stick a treat in front of his nose. Praise him for being quiet and give him the treat.

When your dog starts barking, ask him to do something that’s incompatible with barking. Teach your dog to react to barking stimuli with something that inhibits him from barking, such as lying down in his bed.

Make sure your dog is getting sufficient physical and mental exercise every day. A tired dog is a good dog and one who is less likely to bark from boredom or frustration. Depending on his breed, age, and health, your dog may require several long walks as well as a good game of fetch and playing with interactive toys.

Q. How do I teach my dog to sit still enough and not move his head while I clip on the gentle leader?
ANSWER : A. Most dogs HATE the gentle leader, and it’s not at all surprising. Would you want something foreign on your face? It’s an uncomfortable training tool, and no dog enjoys wearing it. If you are looking to have your dog behave better on-leash, you should consider tossing out that gentle leader, and using a front hooking harness like the Sensible http://www.softouchconcepts.com/index.php/product-53/sense-ible-harness, or the Sensation http://www.softouchconcepts.com/index.php/product-53/sense-ation-harness harness. These harnesses will eliminate the pulling power of your dog, and put you in control in a positive, and gentle way. Any time your dog pulls, he is redirected until he is facing you. You can practically walk your dog with your pinky.

I dislike the gentle leader because it can cause neck injuries in an avid puller/lunger. You also can’t ever hook a long-lead to the gentle leader and allow your dog to run around because it would break his neck. Another thing I dislike about it, is it discourages sniffing the ground during walks. When your dog attempts to sniff, and the leash is short, his nose is redirected upwards. When you trip on the leash, the head is jerked around and the nose is directed upwards. Sniffing during walks is extremely important. Sniffing = mental stimulation, which will tire your dog out more during your walks. The more your dog lags, or forges, the less he can sniff the ground, and the more frustrated he becomes.

If you’re dead set on using the head halti.. you should be using treats to hold his attention. Place the head halti on the floor, reward him for sniffing it, pick it up, treat him, put it near his face, treat him, lure his nose through the loop, lots of treats, take the head halti off, more treats, lure his nose through again, more treats. Take baby steps going forwards AND backwards so the “game” of getting the halti on isn’t always getting more difficult.

Q. Rescued a dog almost two weeks ago, and now that her kennel cough is gone her personality shines!! No previous training, how should I start?
ANSWER : A. POST FOUR:

After your dog is familiar with the behavior you lured from scratch, and taught to your dog, you can start to use the “no-reward marker” I talked about. What you do is ask the dog to perform the behavior, and if the dog does not perform the behavior, you simply say your no-reward marker (choose one: eh-eh, hey, uh-oh, oops) show them the treat, put it behind your back, and BRIEFLY ignore your dog. Just turn your back for a second or two, before turning back to your dog and saying, “let’s try that again.” When you’re ready to start over with your dog, make sure you move around. If you are repeating the same cue while in the same position, while your dog is in the same position, you are likely to receive the same results. The more you move around, and start fresh, the better your chances are of having your dog listen to your cue the second time around. BIG rewards when they dog it successfully! Lots of praise and treats.

My no-reward marker is “hey.” When my dog does something wrong I say, “hey” and she immediately understands that she needs to offer a different behavior. This is clear to her. I don’t have to say it in a mean way, I simply say, “hey” in a normal tone of voice and she understands what the word means.

Once you’ve built up that connection and communication with your new dog, you can work on all kinds of fun behaviors! I personally enjoy the more zen-like behaviors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruy9UMcuGh8

I like to teach my dog fun tricks that offer her a “job” to do of sorts like object retrieval: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4iertZSva8

(object retrieval training completed; what it looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jx0Dml28FGY)

Scent-games are fun too! Very confidence building. Hide a REALLY smelly treat in a box, and place that box in a line of boxes. Let your dog go in the room while saying something like “search!” or “find it!” and watch them hunt for that smelly treat! Lots of rewards when they find it!

Q. How can I train my 4 month old puppy to sit?
ANSWER : A. Training basic commands such as sit is very easy using a positive reinforcement method and does not require any more materials than a place to sit and some very yummy treats! When beginning to teach your dog new tricks, starting off in a distraction free area (such as a quiet room in the house) is best. The training can then expand to more distracting places once your dog has the hang of things.

Start by showing your dog a tasty treat and placing it over his or her nose. When they begin to sniff at the treat, gently move the treat backward. Most dogs will follow the treat with their head, and the backward motion will cause their back ends to sit down! Once your dog sits, reward with the treat and some praise. If your dog tends to walk backwards instead of sit, doing this technique against a wall will prevent your dog from walking backward and encourage sitting.

Once your dog has done this a few times, begin to add the word “sit” every time you put the treat above your dog’s head. Only say the word once, and then continue with the luring motion. Your dog will begin to associate the word with the action after several tries! After this, you can begin to attempt to offer the word “sit” once, and if your dog does so, reward with a treat and praise! If your dog forgets, or appears bored, stop training and try again at a later time- most puppies only have an attention span of a few minutes at most!

Q. My Bulldog puppy growls, barks and even tries to bite me when I say “no” to him. What can I do?
ANSWER : A. First, avoid scolding him and acting aggressively towards him if you don’t want him to be acting aggressively towards you. There are other methods you can use to communicate to your dog that you don’t want him to continue doing what he is doing. I recommend you stop telling him “no”, scolding him, or raising your voice at him. Everything coming from you should be 100% positive and 100% calm.

Try to figure out ways to clearly communicate what you want to your dog. If you want your dog to leave something or someone alone, I strongly suggest teaching your dog commands like “leave it”. Here is a link to a video in which I explain how to do it:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1TS5nA7z5Q

Another thing I suggest you use is a no-reward marker. This clearly communicates when your dog has done something wrong. No-reward markers have to be introduced during your training sessions. You should be doing at least three training sessions per day, that are something like 3-10 minutes long (working on different things each training session). If you are teaching your dog something BRAND NEW, do not use the no-reward marker, as you do not want to discourage your dog from performing behaviors for you. Use the no-reward marker for known behaviors only. Here is another helpful video about this:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdU5a6fXKlg

Lure each new behavior (as shown in the video) using high value treats. Let’s say you’re working on “down” which is a behavior your dog knows fairly well. Present the treat to your dog. Ask your dog to “down” (only ask once). If he does not go “down” immediately, say, “uh-oh” or “eh-eh” in a gentle tone, and then place the treat behind your back. This communicates to your dog that they did something to make the treat go away.

After you place the treat behind your back to show your pup “that was wrong” you need to communicate to your pup “let’s try again” by getting your pup to walk around for a second, and then start the behavior all over again. If your puppy is very young, chances are you haven’t taught him a solid “down” behavior yet. So, as I said, do not use this method until you have lured each new behavior as shown in the video.

This is the order in which you should teach behaviors: Lure using a high value treat as shown in the video. After a few successful food lures, lure with an empty hand. If the pup is successful with the empty hand lure, reward with lots of treats. If the pup is unsuccessful, then go back to food-luring a couple more times. After a few successful empty-hand lures, you can begin to add the cue. Say “sit”, then lure with an empty hand, and then reward. Once your pup understands the cue, begin to work on the no-reward marker.