system

Experienced and professional animal trainer provide their insights in answering this question :
A. See your vet. An exam and blood work may diagnose the underlying cause of the pale gums. The swollen gums may be periodontal disease. The Orajel is likely doing very little, if anything, for him. Additionally, the benzocaine in the product can pose a threat to your cat’s health.

How to Identify Common Pet Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced pet care professionals :

Recovery and Management of Anemia in Cats

Severely anemic cats will likely need to be hospitalized for 2 to 7 days while they receive treatment for the anemia and the underlying cause of the anemia. Prognosis will vary significantly based on the underlying cause of the anemia.

A low hemoglobin level often causes noticeable symptoms, including fatigue, pale skin, trouble breathing, rapid heart rate, and, as the condition worsens, heart problems and even death. Hemoglobin levels have to be extremely low (below 6.5 g/dL) to cause death.
Autoimmune hemolytic anemia (AIHA) is an immune system disease in which the body attacks and destroys its own red blood cells. In cats with AIHA, red blood cells are still being manufactured in the bone marrow, but once released into the circulation, they have a shorter-than-normal life span.
Pale gums themselves cannot really be treated, but you can work with your vet to figure out how to manage the underlying symptoms causing pale gums. You should provide your cat with as many opportunities for healthy hydration as possible throughout the day.
Your cat`s treatment will depend upon the underlying cause of the illness, the severity and other elements of your cat`s overall health. For non-regenerative anemia, once your vet pinpoints the cause, your cat`s anemia can typically be resolved by treating the underlying disease.
The last stage is iron deficiency anemia. It is characterized by a low hemoglobin concentration with small (microcytic), pale (hypochromic) RBCs. Symptoms include fatigue upon exertion, weakness, headaches, apathy, pallor, poor resistance to cold temperatures, low physical work capacity, and poor immune function.
Primary leukemias are a type of cancer in which abnormal white blood cells displace normal blood cells. This leads to anemia and a lack of normal white blood cells and platelets. Primary leukemias are uncommon, but they have been reported in cats.
Non-regenerative anemia in cats can be caused by bone marrow disorders, kidney failure, liver disease and other chronic illnesses. The most common cause of anemia in cats in cats is kidney failure. Usually, in a healthy cat, their kidneys will produce a hormone which encourages the production of red blood cells.
Feline Leukemia Virus

Cats that are anemic due to FeLV infection may present with nonspecific findings such as weight loss, fever, GI signs, or signs related to anemia or other cytopenias (if other cell lines are affected). Cats with FeLV may also have a regenerative, hemolytic anemia.

An anemic cat may have little energy to play or may sleep more than usual. The cat`s gums may appear almost white or even yellow (a condition called jaundice) due to red blood cell destruction.
Gums with the following characteristics indicate your kitty is in good health. Pink color: Healthy cat gums are light pink in color. The ideal shade of pink is one that`s neither too bright nor too pale.
Symptoms of Feline Leukemia Virus

Pale gums. Yellow color in the mouth and whites of eyes. Enlarged lymph nodes. Bladder, skin, or upper respiratory infections.

The virus eventually moves to the bone marrow and compromises the immune system. Although a cat in this state may show no signs of illness for several years, FeLV-related diseases such as anemia, skin diseases, and leukemia typically develop within two to three years.
Elanco`s Varenzin-CA1 is the first drug for the control of nonregenerative anemia associated with chronic kidney disease (CKD) in cats for which the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has granted conditional approval, the agency announced May 1.
Iron supplements can also help. Iron-rich foods include lean meat such as turkey, pork, beef and chicken (just make sure to trim the fat off pork products before feeding to your cat, as too much can cause pancreatitis).
It carries oxygen from the lungs to the rest of the body. Anemia has three main causes: blood loss, lack of red blood cell production, and high rates of red blood cell destruction. Conditions that may lead to anemia include: Heavy periods.
Iron deficiency anemia usually develops slowly because it may take several months for the body`s iron reserves to be used up. As the iron reserves are decreasing, the bone marrow gradually produces fewer red blood cells.
Mild anemia is a common and treatable condition that can develop in anyone. It may come about suddenly or over time, and may be caused by your diet, medicines you take, or another medical condition. Anemia can also be chronic, meaning it lasts a long time and may never go away completely.
Many types of anemia exist, such as iron-deficiency anemia, pernicious anemia, aplastic anemia, and hemo- lytic anemia. The different types of anemia are linked to various diseases and conditions.
During stage 5, iron deficiency affects tissues, resulting in symptoms and signs. Diagnosis of iron deficiency anemia prompts consideration of its cause, usually bleeding. Patients with obvious blood loss (eg, women with menorrhagia) may require no further testing.
People in this age group often have other risk factors as well, such as multiple chronic health conditions. Anemia in seniors can lead to symptoms such as fatigue, weakness, and irritability. Although it can be easy for these symptoms to go unnoticed, it`s important to get them diagnosed as soon as possible.
The best sources are red meat (especially beef and liver), poultry, fish, and shellfish. Other foods high in iron include peas, lentils, beans, tofu, dark green leafy vegetables such as spinach, dried fruits such as prunes and raisins, and iron-fortified cereals and breads.
Some cats also lose their appetite when they`re anemic and may drink more in an effort to replace lost blood volume. In severe cases, when a cat has lost a lot of blood, it may be unable to move or can become unresponsive due to a lack of oxygen to the brain.
Feline infectious anaemia (FIA) is the term used to describe a disease caused by a group of specialised bacteria (called mycoplasmas) that infect red blood cells in the circulation. These bacteria or mycoplasmas are collectively known as `haemoplasmas`.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Q. Senior cat with swollen and pale pink gums. ongoing.been to vet am using oragel on gums does he need something for anemia o to boost immune system
ANSWER : A. See your vet. An exam and blood work may diagnose the underlying cause of the pale gums. The swollen gums may be periodontal disease. The Orajel is likely doing very little, if anything, for him. Additionally, the benzocaine in the product can pose a threat to your cat’s health.

Read Full Q/A … : Vetinfo

Q. Why do cats meow?
ANSWER : A. Cat parents often wish they could better understand what their favorite feline friends want or desire. A cat’s meow can be interpreted in many different ways and can indicate an array of feelings and needs. Here are some of the most common reasons for your cat’s vocalizations:

1. Greeting- Many cats will meow as a greeting when you enter your home or walk into a room. Cats will also meow at another cat or animal in the household to extend a hello and acknowledge the other animal’s presence.

2. Attention – An exuberant meow followed by leg rubbing or another attention seeking behavior may indicate your cat is looking for some quality time spent together. Some petting or rubbing behind the ears may be in order.

3. Hunger – A meowing cat is often a hungry cat. This is one of the most common reasons for a cat to vocalize to their owners. A cat will meow to get your attention at feeding times or even when they want extra food.

4. Sickness – A sick or hurt cat may begin to meow excessively, warranting a visit to the veterinarian. There are numerous reasons for a cat in distress to meow—whether it is related to an upset stomach, an injured leg or a urinary blockage. These meows should be carefully investigated.

5. Entering or leaving – Most cats will vocalize when they want to be let in or out of a room. You may notice when you are in the bathroom or behind the closed door of a room that your cat begins to meow, scratches at the door, and often reaches its paw under the door. This is a clear indication that the cat wants to be where you are.

6. Angry – An agitated cat may meow to warn their owner or another household pet that they are upset and would like to be left alone. This angry meow may increase in sound volume as the cat becomes more stressed or agitated. Often a cat will exhibit this type of meow at the veterinary office when they are unhappy with their examination or restraint.

Each feline is different and so are their vocalizations. Learn to understand the variety of meows your cat uses on a daily basis. This will help you develop a better relationship with your cat and help them live a more trusting and happier life.

Q. My cat continues to scratch on furniture and carpets. He has plenty of scratching posts around the house. Please help!
ANSWER : A. Scratching is a natural behavior in cats that can be frequently frustrating for pet owners who want to keep their furniture from being shredded on a constant basis. The texture of furniture and carpet is very appealing to cats and this why they frequently choose to spend their time on this activity as opposed to playing with their own cat toys. Here are some suggestions to help curb this unwanted behavior:

1. Purchase a cat scratching post or cat tree that is covered in carpeted or textured material. Place it in an appealing spot that your cat would be inclined to spend time (eg. in the sun). You can also place catnip on the scratching post or cat tree to make your cat even more interested in the new object.

2. You can utilize double sided tape on the ends of the furniture because you cat will not like the sticky feeling and will learn to not scratch in that region. Use the tape that has a lighter adhesive in order to prevent any permanent damage. Other materials, such as aluminum foil or bubble wrap can also be placed on the furniture to discourage the scratching.

3. Keep nails trimmed short by either learning to do this on your own at home or using a veterinary technician, or groomer. Nails can usually be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.

4. Redirect the unwanted behavior. If your cat begins scratching, use a favorite or new toy to distract the cat from the scratching. Give your cat positive praise for not scratching.

5. As a last resort you can use a spray bottle full of water to spritz your cat when he or she is scratching inappropriately at your furniture. Generally, cats do not like water and this will discourage them from continuing the behavior.

Have patience with your cat because it can takes time to understand this is an unwanted behavior and that furniture is not another toy for them to use. You can always consult your veterinary or veterinary behaviorist to help with ideas or further solutions to this problem.

Read Full Q/A … : I found Pickle on

Q. My cat will not stop going to the toilet on my carpet, bed, washing pile etc.. Also uses its litter box occasionally? I don’t understand why this is?
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his eliminating outside the box.
If medical issues are ruled out, take a look at other reasons. Has there been a lot of unusual activity? Has you cat been left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Is it big enough? Have you changed the type or brand of litter? Is there something attractive about the spot he uses? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out to express their dissatisfaction.
The general rule is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped daily, if not more often and changed completely weekly, washed with soap and water only. You can offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystals, it makes a hissing sound when wet that startles some cats and make them reluctant to use it again. The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure any other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litter box. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation. And, when cleaning up pet accidents, don’t use any cleaner containing ammonia. This leaves behind a scent similar to urine.

Q. My cat gets something that feels like acne, mostly above the base of her tail. Cleared up with a steroid shot, but returned 6 weeks later.
ANSWER : A. If the lesions clear up with a steroid shot, that would imply to me that this is a disease that has to do with the immune system. Steroids suppress the immune system, and prevent it from reacting. Typically in animals with auto-immune diseases the immune system is either reacting too forcefully to something that it should basically ignore (allergies) or attacking its own tissues for reasons we don’t understand.

It’s possible that your cat had fleas at one point and unfortunately now has an allergy to fleas. Cats with this problem will react significantly to even one flea bite, because of the allergy. So not only must the cat be continually protected against fleas (with a monthly product to repel them) we must also manage the allergic disease. This means immuno-suppression like she’s already gotten in the form of a steroid shot. Under almost 99% of circumstances I don’t recommend these long-acting steroid shots due to severe side effects with chronic use. There are many other safer alternatives in the form of oral medications that can be used.

She could also have allergies to something other than fleas – something in the environment or something in her food. It’s worth trying a trial of a hypoallergenic food in order to see if the condition improves.

If a food trial fails, and if managing the disease as if she was allergic ultimately doesn’t provide complete relief, then the area needs to by biopsied in order to obtain an exact diagnosis, and treat appropriately.

Read Full Q/A … : Vetinfo

Q. I have a cat that defecates in the litter box but always urinates outside the box. It is very annoying.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his eliminating outside the box.

If medical issues are ruled out, take a look at other reasons. Has there been a lot of unusual activity? Has you cat been left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Is it big enough? Have you changed the type or brand of litter? Is there something attractive about the spot he uses? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out to express their dissatisfaction.

The general rule is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped daily, if not more often and changed completely weekly, washed with soap and water only. You can offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystals, it makes a hissing sound when wet that startles some cats and make them reluctant to use it again. The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure any other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litter box. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation. And, when cleaning up pet accidents, don’t use any cleaner containing ammonia. This leaves behind a scent similar to urine.

Q. My cat is pooping outside of the litter bix. He is 2 1/2. He did this as a kitten. It stopped then started about 3 months ago. Litterbox is clean.
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate elimination or house soiling can be a frustrating problem but with a bit of detective work on your part, there is hope. First, before deciding that this is a behavioral issue, any medical problems (diarrhea, constipation, fecal incontinence, pain on defecation, etc.) need to be ruled out and/or treated. If your cat receives a clean bill of health from your vet but is still eliminating outside the litterbox, then we need to consider that something about the box itself might be aversive to your cat. Cats can be quite finicky about their litterbox and toileting habits. Below I have listed common recommendations and cat preferences for litterbox use. Review the list and make any changes that could account for your cat’s aversion to defecating in the litterbox:
* Soft, fine-grained clumping litter (vs, coarse-grained, non-clumping litter)
* Unscented
* 1 – 1 1/2 inch depth (especially older cats or cats with hip problems)
* Larger pans (especially for large cats) – want to get whole body inside – poop just outside the box might mean the box is too small
* Open, non-hooded
* At least one shallow side to get in and out easily
* Easy to get to – not hidden away, preferably in areas they spend time in or near – and not near appliances that make scary, unpredictable noises (washers, dryers, refrigerators)
* Scoop minimum 1X/day – preferably 2
* Clean the litterbox with soap and water and put in fresh scoopable litter at least once/month (instead of just continuously adding)
* Some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in a separate box, so you may need 2 boxes even if you just have 1 cat. Multi-cat households should have 1 box/cat plus 1 extra.

Q. My cat started to pee outside the litter box. What should I do?
ANSWER : A. Inappropriate bathroom use in cats is often a behavioral problem rather than a medical problem, so the first step is to have him seen by your vet to eliminate any kind of illness or condition as a cause for his defecating outside the box.

Once medical issues are ruled out, it’s time to take a look at other explanations. Has there been a lot of activity that wasn’t normal? Were you away and your cat was left at home or boarded? Is the litterbox located in a busy area? Has anything happened recently in this area to make him reluctant to use it again? Is there another cat, pet, or person that is preventing him from getting to the box? Have you changed it from a hooded to an open box, or vice versa? Have you changed the brand of litter or kind? Or is there something about the spot he has chosen to use that is attracting him in some way? Cats dislike disturbances to their routine and may act out as a way of expressing their dissatisfaction.

The general rule of thumb is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one. That way each cat can have a place of their own to go in case the box is occupied or another cat has claimed it as territory. They should be scooped at least daily, if not more often and changed completely on a weekly basis, and washed with soap and water.

You can also offer one kind of litter in one box and another kind in another to see if there is a preference. I don’t recommend the crystal kind, since it makes a hissing sound when wet that can startle some cats and make them reluctant to use it again.

The litter boxes should be located in a quiet, low-traffic area so that the cat can use them in peace. Make sure other pets or people aren’t giving them a hard time around or in the litterbox. It may take some investigation and experimentation to find your cat’s preference and accommodate him so that everyone is satisfied with the situation.